Ginger Lemon Tart

This dessert is my own version of a deconstructed (or reconstructed, as it were) gingersnap cookie dipped in bittersweet lemon curd.  It's a ginger cookie crust, filled with homemade lemon curd, and topped with a molasses whipped cream.

It's been awhile since I've made a tart, but every time I do, I think about "Queen of Tarts"--a gorgeous little food and pastry shop in Cape Town, SA that's more than worth a visit (or two). 

The Felice Brothers have a new album coming out, "Favorite Waitress," and it features a pretty excellent song I heard about a year ago on a recording from Asheville's Orange Peel.  Here's that acoustic version of "Cherry Licorice."

...All she wants to drink is lemon spritzer/ she don't care if the image fits her/ Who wants to spend their time/ choking on lemon rind

Ingredients:
*Adapted from Ina Garten's "Lemon Curd Tart"
Ginger Cookie Crust:
--12 tbsp. unsalted butter, chilled and chopped
--1/2 c. dark brown sugar
--1 3/4 c. flour
--1/2 tsp. salt
--1 tsp. ground ginger

Lemon Curd Filling:
--5 lemons
--1 1/2 c. granulated sugar
--8 tbsp. butter, softened at room temperature
--6 eggs
--pinch of salt

Molasses Whipped Cream:
--1 pint heavy whipping cream
--1/2 c. granulated sugar
--2 tbsp. molasses (you could add more or less depending on taste)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

First make the crust.  In a food processor, combine butter, dark brown sugar, flour, salt, and ginger.  Pulse until the mixture begins to form a crumbly dough.  Form into a ball and press into a 10" tart pan.  Press dough from the center outward until the interior of the tart pan--bottom and sides--are covered.  Cover the crust with aluminum foil and bake for 18 minutes.  Remove tart crust from the oven and remove the foil.  Poke fork holes throughout the dough and continue to bake uncovered for another 20 minutes, or just until the crust begins to turn a light golden color.  Remove from oven and allow to cool.

While your crust is cooling, it's time to make your lemon curd filling.  Zest all five lemons.

Then cut the lemons in half and juice them.  You should have just about one cup of lemon juice.  Pour through a sieve and set aside.

Combine the zest and the 1 1/2 c. sugar in a food processor, and pulse for about 2 minutes.  You'll want the zest to be extremely finely ground and completely incorporated into the sugar.  In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, cream the zest and sugar mixture with the butter until smooth.  Add your eggs one at a time and mix at a low speed.  Drop in a pinch of salt.  Slowly add the fresh lemon juice, continuing to mix at a low speed until all ingredients are combined.

Transfer your curd mixture to a medium saucepan and heat over low for approximately 10 minutes, stirring constantly, until the curd has thickened.  Remove it from the heat, allow to cool just slightly, then pour into the cooled crust.  Allow the mixture to set for 30 minutes at room temperature and then transfer to the refrigerator.

When you're ready to serve, make the molasses whipped cream.  In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment, combine heavy whipping cream, sugar, and molasses until you have your desired thickness.  I like to whisk mine until medium-stiff peaks form.  Top your ginger lemon tart with the molasses whipped cream and serve.

Tiramisu

Tiramisu is one of those desserts that looks really complicated, but it's actually a treat you can make with relative ease as long as you have a little bit of time on your hands.  And it's one of my favorite "desserts served cold."  (You know what I mean--cookies and pies often seem best when they're still warm from the oven, but tiramisu is at its most delicious around 38 degrees F.)

Sometimes this sweet treat has raw eggs in it.  And while those varieties--like Giada's version, for instance--are delicious, I like to make mine with zabaglione (an Italian custard) instead.  In other words, no raw eggs.

This dish takes some time to put together and also needs some time to chill in the refrigerator, so be sure to give yourself a good 6 hours before you want to serve it.  Since this dessert is all about the coffee flavor, here's Mississippi John Hurt singing "Coffee Blues."

Ingredients:
--1 package Savoiardi ("ladyfinger" cookies, and you'll need about 30)
--6 large egg yolks, separated
--1/3 c. granulated sugar
--1/3 c. brandy
--16 oz. mascarpone (usually two small tubs)
--1/2 c. heavy whipping cream
--2 tsp. vanilla extract
--2 c. very strong coffee, brewed and cooled
--1/4 c. cocoa powder
--1/2 c. shaved dark chocolate

(Note: you'll need to brew and cool your coffee ahead of time so it's ready to go.  You can substitute strong coffee for espresso, but I like to use a French press to make a really strong and flavorful coffee for the tiramisu.)

In a double boiler, whisk egg yolks and granulated sugar constantly until the mixture just begins to thicken.  Slowly add the brandy, whisking constantly, until it's combined.  Continue to heat mixture, whisking, until you have a creamy, medium-thick custard (about 4 or 5 minutes).  Now you've got yourself "zabaglione," or an Italian custard.  Cover with plastic and allow to cool in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.

In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the mascarpone, vanilla, and whipping cream until fluffy, about 2-3 minutes.  Slowly add the zabaglione to the mixture on low speed until it's combined.  Set aside.

In an 8x8 baking dish, place approximately 10 ladyfingers (just so the bottom of the dish is covered).  Using a teaspoon, drizzle the coffee over the ladyfingers until they're wet with coffee (you don't want them dripping, but you want them soft).

Next, using a spatula, spread about 1/3 of the cream mixture onto the lady fingers.

Then top with about 1/3 of the cocoa powder and 1/3 of the dark chocolate shavings (by the way, if you like a little less chocolate, you could just use either the cocoa powder or chocolate shavings).  Repeat two more times until you have tiramisu!  Chill covered in the refrigerator for about 2-3 hours.

Store leftovers in the fridge.  This won't keep for more than about 48-72 hours, so eat up!

Millionaire's Shortbread ("Billionaire" Style)

Have you had the most delicious shortbread in the world?  Here's the recipe!  Millionaire's shortbread is a popular British treat, and this recipe is adapted from Jennifer Yee's "Billionaire's Shortbread" featured in Food and Wine.  In short, it's more decadent than the classic millionaire's shortbread with amber caramel, a rich dark chocolate ganache, and a sea salt topping.

This recipe is more than a little time intensive, so make sure you have several hours to spare if you're going to make it.  No doubt, it's worth it.  You'll end up with one of the most deliciously rich shortbread confections you've ever tasted.  Since it's topped with a thick layer of ganache, it's gotta be served chilled and stored in the refrigerator (don't take it to a picnic).

Do you know the Cleveland bank Rocket from the Tombs?  I discovered them on CD in college and found the same collection on vinyl at Normal's in Baltimore a year or two ago.  (Rocket from the Tombs was a very short-lived but amazing punk band.)  If you don't know them, you should.  Here's "So Cold" from a "posthumous," if you will, collection of live and demo recordings from 1974-75 on The Day the Earth Met the Rocket from the Tombs.

Ingredients:
*Adapted from Jennifer Yee's Billionaire's Shortbread
Shortbread:
--1 stick unsalted butter, chilled and cubed
--3/4 c. all-purpose flour
--1/4 c. corn flour
--1/3 c. granulated sugar
--pinch of salt

Caramel:
--1 1/2 c. granulated sugar
--2 tbsp. unsalted butter
--1/2 c. heavy cream
--pinch of salt

Chocolate Ganache:
--16 ounces dark chocolate, chopped
--3/4 c. heavy cream
--1 tsp. vanilla
--coarsely ground sea salt (for topping)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Make the shortbread first.  Combine butter, flour, corn flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor.  Pulse until a dough forms.  Now line an 8" square baking pan with aluminum foil so that the foil comes up over the edges (take two sheets of foil and cross them in the pan).  Then line the bottom with a square of parchment paper.  Press the shortbread dough into the pan with the palm of your hand and smooth it until it's even.  Bake for 20-25 minutes, or just until the edges are slightly golden.  The dough will still be slightly soft when it's done.  Don't overcook it!  Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Now make the caramel.  Jennifer Yee makes a wet caramel, but I prefer to make a dry one.  Dry caramels (or those made with *just* sugar and no water) are a darker amber color, and I think they go really nicely with dark chocolate and sea salt.

In a medium saucepan, add 1 1/2 c. sugar over medium heat (on the lower side of medium).  Let the sugar sit until it begins to caramelize.  Don't mix it.  Instead, using a spatula, just continue pushing the edges of the sugar down into the pan.  You'll see the sugar begin to caramelize and turn an amber color.  Fight the urge to mix it!  The rest of the sugar will incorporate and caramelize, too.  But watch it very closely--once all he sugar has incorporated, it's done--don't let it burn.  Turn the heat to low and add 2 tbsp. unsalted butter.  Swirl in the butter until it has melted.  Now add the heavy cream (be careful when doing this--it splashes) and mix continuously for about 3-4 minutes, or just until you've have a beautifully textured caramel.  Swirl in the pinch of salt and remove from heat.

Immediately pour over the chilled shortbread and place in the refrigerator to cool down for about an hour.

Finally, make the chocolate ganache!  Place 16 oz. chopped dark chocolate in a medium-sized bowl.  In a small saucepan, heat 3/4 c. heavy cream over low-medium heat until it reaches a simmer.  Pour over the chocolate and add 1 tsp. vanilla.  Let it sit until the chocolate melts almost completely.  Then stir until you have a smooth, creamy ganache.  Pour over the shortbread/caramel and smooth with a spatula.  Top with some coarsely ground sea salt.  Cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1-2 hours.

Once the ganache has chilled, remove the shortbread from the pan (the foil and parchment should allow you to just lift it up) and cut into squares.

Serve chilled, and store any extra squares covered in the refrigerator.

Hummingbird Cake

Rumor has it that this recipe was named the "hummingbird cake" because those who had a delicious slice spent the rest of their days happily humming.  It's a banana, pineapple, and walnut cake with layers of cream cheese buttercream icing.  What's not to love?

I actually made this cake for my birthday last month, but I'm just now getting around to posting it.  I adapted my recipe from the one that appears in Saveur.  The magazine indicates that this cake has its origins with Edna Lewis, an African American southern cooking extraordinaire from Virginia who lived most of her adult life in New York City.

My first piece of hummingbird cake was a magnificent experience at Maxie B's, a bakery in Greensboro, NC.  In honor of that fantastic Carolina cake shop, here's Ryan Adams singing "Oh My Sweet Carolina."  

Ingredients:
*Adapted from Saveur
Cake Batter:
--3 c. flour, + extra for flouring your cake pans
--1 tbsp. cinnamon
--1 tsp. baking soda
--pinch of salt
--3 tbsp. unsalted butter, + extra for buttering pans
--4 large eggs, beaten
--1 tbsp. vanilla extract
--1 c. crushed pineapple
--4 ripe bananas, mashed
--1 c. brown sugar
--1 1/2 c. granulated sugar
--1 c. finely chopped pecans
--1 c. canola oil

Icing:
--3/4 c. unsalted butter, chilled
--3 8-oz packages of cream cheese
--1 tbsp. vanilla extract
--1 vanilla bean, seeded
--2 3/4 c. confectioner's sugar
--1 c. chopped pecans (for sprinkling on top of the icing)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  Butter Line two 9" or 10" round cake pans and dust with flour so that the flour covers all of the butter.  Gently tap out any excess flour.  Line the bottoms of the pans with parchment paper and set aside.

In a standing mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the eggs, brown sugar, granulated sugar, and vanilla until light and smooth.  Add the crushed pineapple, bananas, and canola oil.  Continue to beat until combined.  Sift in the flour, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt.  Mix on low until combined.  At the end, add in the chopped pecans.

Divide your batter evenly between your two prepared cake pans.  Bake until a cake tester comes out clean, or about 55 minutes.  Allow the cakes to cool for 10 minutes, then remove them from the cake pans.  Set aside to continue cooling.  While the cakes are cooling, make your icing.

Clean your standing mixer.  With the paddle attachment, beat the butter for about 3 minutes, or until it's very smooth.  Add the cream cheese, vanilla, and vanilla bean seeds and beat for another 1-2 minutes.  Slowly add the confectioner's sugar on low speed until it's incorporated.  Then increase the speed to medium-high until the icing is firm but fluffy.

On a cake stand, place a small dollop of the icing and set the first cake on top (the icing will hold it in place).  Spread about 1/3 of the icing over the first cake layer, then generously sprinkle chopped pecans onto the icing.  Add the second cake layer on top.  Add another 1/3 of the icing and cover the cake completely, tops and sides.  With the remaining 1/3 of the icing, decorate the cake however you'd like.  I used an icing bag with a star tip.  Sprinkle remaining pecans all over the cake.

Serve!  And can I just say that this cake also makes for a delicious breakfast and coffee-time treat.

Duck Confit

The last time I saw Paris . . . I also saw a lot of duck confit.  Buttery, salty, tender, melt-in-your-mouth duck confit.  What is this delicious dish?  It's traditionally a duck quarter (leg and thigh) cooked and stored in its own rendered fat.  Yes, you read that right.  A very rich dinner, duck confit is easier to make at home than you might think.

One of the really tricky tasks for making duck confit is locating enough duck fat (and spending quite a lot of money on it!) to cover your duck quarters.  Thanks to the confit-ing genius Michael Ruhlman, I realized that I could have duck confit anytime by simply using olive oil instead of rendered duck fat in the cooking process.  You'll still need quite a bit of olive oil, but you can purchase it readily at any grocery store.

Plan ahead for making this dish: you'll need to start at least 3 days before you want to eat it.  The waiting time will give you more time to listen to "This Country's Going to War" from the most perfect film to complement a duck dish--the Marx Bros.' Duck Soup (in fact, you'll have time to watch the whole film more than once).  

Ingredients:

--4 duck quarters

--herbes de provence 

--a lotta salt

--about one quart olive oil

Day One:

Place duck quarters in an enamel cast iron pan and heavily salt them.  Sprinkle on herbes de provence with a heavy hand, and then rub in the herbs and salt.  (By the way, you can use any herbs you'd like.  Fresh rosemary and thyme would be great.)  Store covered in the fridge for at least 24 hours.

Day Two:

Preheat oven to 180 degrees F.

Rinse the duck legs in cold water to remove the herbs and salt.  Pat dry.  Repeat with the remaining duck quarters.  Place skin-side-up in the enamel cast iron pan and completely cover with olive oil. 

Bring to a simmer on the stove and then transfer, uncovered, to the oven.  Bake for approximately 10 hours, or until the oil has become clear and the duck legs are resting on the bottom of the pan (different chefs say anywhere between 6-12 hours, but I think 10 hours is just about perfect).

Allow to cool and then transfer--the whole cast iron pan and all--to the refrigerator.  Keep refrigerated in the oil, completely submerged, for at least 24 hours.  Here, the longer the better--you can make these up to 3-4 weeks before you're going to serve them since the oil acts as a preservation method.  But remember, at least 24 hours in the cooled fat before eating.

Day Three:

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Remove duck quarters from the fat and scrape off remaining fat (it will have congealed around the meat).  Transfer to a baking dish, skin-side-up, and bake for about 20-25 minutes, or just until the skin is quite crispy.  Remove from oven and serve.  Ohmygod.  It's so delicious, and oh-so-easy.  

Banana Vegan Ice Cream

It's sort of a misnomer, but this "ice cream" is just as creamy and delicious as any made with dairy products.  And it's shockingly simple.  Do you have a large food processor?  Do you have a freezer?  With some day-old bananas, you can create a healthy dessert.  At the risk of sounding scientifically naive, the transformation is like magic!

Now, I added some extra ingredients to mine for a take on "bananas foster," including rum, cinnamon, brown sugar, and toasted pecans.  You can get creative and mix your banana "ice cream" with any number of add-ons.  Some ideas include: Nutella, peanut butter, honey, dark chocolate chips . . .

I always think about the song I'm about to give you in connection to Billy Wilder's 1954 film Sabrina.  In that gem of postwar cinema, Audrey Hepburn sings a quirky version of Spike Jones's already playful "Yes, We Have No Bananas!"

Ingredients:
--4 very ripe bananas, chopped and frozen (overnight)
--2 tsp. ground cinnamon
--1/4 c. dark brown sugar
--2 tbsp. dark rum
--1/2 c. toasted chopped pecans

In a large food processor, combine all ingredients except the pecans (you're going to use those as a topping).  You'll need to pulse for quite awhile--don't worry if the bananas aren't blending immediately.  Depending on how frozen your bananas are, you'll need to pulse on high for about 5-7 minutes.  At first, you'll begin to see the bananas turning into tiny little chunks, and slowly they'll cream together until you have a very smooth dessert.

Serve and top with toasted pecans.

This recipe makes about 4 c. of of vegan banana ice cream.  If you can't finish it all at once, you can refreeze it for later.  

Butternut Squash Soup

Everyone thinks they have a great recipe for butternut squash soup, and various versions adorn winter menus everywhere.  The recipe I'm about to give you is the best one.  I tried this butternut squash soup for the first time almost ten years ago now, when my best friend's stepfather made it for Thanksgiving dinner in upstate New York.  I've been told it was an adaptation from a New York Times cookbook, but I've never found this precise recipe there.

It's something delicious and special, and it's actually pretty easy to make.  You'll never try another recipe.

I mentioned that this soup often makes me think of a wintry Thanksgiving I spent many years back.  While the holiday food season is over, its music doesn't need to be.  Here's Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong singing "Autumn in New York."

Ingredients:
--1 large butternut squash
--1 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
--2 carrots, peeled and chopped
--1 clove garlic
--2-3 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
--1 tbsp. salt + a little extra to taste
--1-2 tsp. pepper
--2 tsp. ground nutmeg
--about 48 oz. chicken stock, or 1 1/2 cartons (you can substitute veggie stock if you're making this a vegetarian recipe)
--2 c. half and half, or heavy cream

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Slice butternut squash in half and scoop out seeds and filling.  Using a pastry brush or your hands, coat the flesh with extra virgin olive oil.  Fill the seed "holes" in the squash with the chopped carrots, onions, and lone garlic clove.  It's okay if they overflow a little bit.  Lightly salt the flesh of the squash, and place in the oven on a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Roast for about one hour, or until the squash and the veggies inside are quite soft.

Scoop the veggies into a large stock pot and add the chicken stock.  Simmer on low.  Now scoop out the squash--the skin should peel back very easily, and you should be able to remove almost all of the "meat."  Place it in the stockpot.

Sprinkle salt, pepper, and nutmeg into the pot.  Using an immersion blender, emulsify those ingredients.  Add the half and half or cream, and blend just a bit more.  Serve warm with a sprig or two of fresh thyme.